"It can't be overstated: climb aboard a fjord bound ship and you've doomed yourself to the experience of life-changing, metaphysical beauty"...... says the lonely planet. They have totally underestimated the intensity of the landscape. You cannot escape the beauty.
I have had a sore neck for days from craning upwards out of the car windscreen, staring upwards at waterfalls and glaciers.
We left our urban campsite on the docks of Bergen and headed north and upwards along the E39 towards the mouth of Sognefjorden, the longest fjord in the world. Our plan, to drive along the entire length of the the fjord and then cross the mountainous interior of Norway to Oslo.
An almost empty car ferry takes us to the northern shore and then we turn east off the E39 onto the "B" roads. Here the hills climb gently from the still waters. They are covered in apple orchards, every tree heavily laden with bright red fruit.
Light blue sky, dark blue water, red apples, bright green grass and trees fading to autumn yellows combine with an empty road and gentle corners to set one's heart soaring. Pure joy is a rare experience sometimes, but if you ever want some, I can't recommend Norway enough.
After a full day of intense beauty we pulled up at the nights planned destination, a quiet village on the fjord shoreline, to find everything closed for the season. The campsite locked up and the village, Balestrand, deserted. A few phone calls later and a campsite 9 km away says we can stay. But when we arrive it is just an empty field with one other caravan in it and nobody else in sight.
The couple from Oslo in the caravan have also been searching for an open campsite all afternoon and tell us the owner will come soon to collect our fees. This has to be the cutest campsite so far. Tiny red wooden huts in a grassy field with an office that contains a single bed, a desk and a portrait on the king and queen. The owner arrives and we pay our fees. Dinner and card games follow along with a good nights sleep.
The following morning we rise to another sunny day. It has rained (touch wood) only once on this trip so far. The kids decide to climb up the hill behind the site to the waterfall above us, before breakfast. I head for the tiny timber shower block for a wash and a much needed shave. When I return the kids are still gone so I decide to follow and check on them.
The climb makes me painfully aware of how unfit I am. Sucking air like a drowning man I finally catch up with Flynn and Jane perched on the edge of a waterfall with a long drop below us all. So I gather them up and we head down via an old avalanche site of moss covered boulders that dislodge with every footfall. It's a slow journey down with both kids having a "I can't go on" moment before we reach the safety of Dotty.
Our drive today is a short one to the base of Europe's largest glacier. Once again we find a deserted campsite open just for us, the owner arrives by car to open the office and collect our fees. We set up and then upload the bikes for an afternoon ride along the fjord into the village. The empty deserted village. It has amazing hotels and cute book shops (4-km of book shelves says the guide book) but it's like a zombie movie, with all the residents gone for the winter. Then we feel it. The cold. In minutes the temperature plunges as the shadow of the mountains falls on us like some evil beast. Fingers freezing and children complaining we scurry back to camp to light the stove and warm everyone up with cooking.
The next morning everything is covered in ice. Oh no what have we done. Have we missed the boat. Are we doomed to travel europe in the cold?
We pack up in slow motion with painfully frozen fingers. Frozen bikes lifted onto their racks. Icy cold gas taps turned off and ice scrapped off the windscreen. Bundled up as best we can, We start up dotty's cold engine and head into the village to get bread for lunch. With such high mountains about, the sun kisses the earth late in the morning here. But when is does, it's like a magical springtime. We cross into the sunlight halfway to the village and steam rises from all around us. There must be a 10 degree temperature difference between sun and shade. The ice and frost melts and the landscape is enveloped in rising vapors creating another layer of beauty on this already impossibly beautiful scene.
The glacier visitor's centre is closed for the winter. We hike up to the ice face alone following a path made of little cairns stacked carefully on the boulders. They seem like small offerings made to the gods to avert the dangers of rock falls and ice crashing down on you.
Later that day we arrive at Kaupanger to catch the 4pm ferry along the UNESCO listed fjords to Flam. But it doesn't run in the winter. So we camp at a "free" campsite for the night on the waters edge to get the 0930 ferry the next day (It closes for the winter in 3 days). I "borrow" some firewood and the kids are overjoyed to have a fire to warm up with while mum cooks and they fish. No fish are caught but we are all well smoked before climbing into bed.
The ferry ride the next morning is cold, empty (one other car and 6 other passengers) and as amazing as promised in the guide book. The mountains meet the fjord here in steep cliffs decorated with waterfalls and pink granite. The water is like a mirror reflecting snow capped sun drenched mountains.
We dock at Flam in time to catch to last train up the mountain via the steepest train ride in the Norway (Europe?). An engineering marvel of hairpin tunnels. at the top you can continue onto Oslo or Bergen but we travel back down to our (empty) campsite.
Oslo is our next destination. Our next down neighbor has sent our mail here via a friend. But first we have to cross the central mountains of Norway to get there. This is proper nordic mountain landscapes. Ice covered mountain passes and mountain top lakes. The trees here have almost lost all their leaves and eventually we climb above the tree line into ski fields. No snow yet but it feels like the lifts will be open soon. 200 km of slow roads and very speed limit conscious Norwegian drivers later we arrive in Oslo.
Thursday, 30 September 2010
Sunday, 26 September 2010
Bergen-Norway
Getting here was a true adventure. We left the shiny clean and very friendly Ribe campsite early and after a tour around town and a re-supply of the larder (we've heard Norway is expensive) we hit the road. The flat landscape slowly giving way to rolling hills as we moved north.
But between us and Hirtshals was a must see, the bog man! This guy was murdered and tossed in a bog over 2000 years ago and has been preserved by it in a amazing way. The details on his body are startling.
We recovered from the haunting display with a walk through the surrounding forrest and some local exotic ice creams. Magnum cones and Daim cones.
4pm and we still had 200 clicks to our overnight stop. So we put a movie on for the the kids, and got on the motor-way. Dotty seems to love these flat northern roads and happily cruises at 120kph. Never mind that other cars are flying by with a 130kph speed limit. The traffic go thinner and thinner and we got closer to the northern tip of Denmark. The sun hanging low in the sky seemingly resisting its bedtime like a restless child.
At last we pulled into Hirtshals and after a long drive and a few wrong turns found our campsite..........closed for the season. With light fading fast we skipped out of down to the 2nd campsite hoping we wouldn't be camping on the docks overnight. It was open but empty. we checked in and to the kids delight the heated indoor pool was still open. Dinner was put on hold and a family dip had.
The sun rises late up here. So waking at dawn has become the norm. Beth and I washed dishes and packed up Dotty whilst the Jane and Flynn had a play at the campsite and petted a local cat who'd taken a shine to the scraps on offer from last nights dinner.
Packed and cleaned we piled into Dotty and made our way to the docks where our ferry to Norway waited, the Bergensfjord. We checked in and drove to the "camper-van" line. We were greeted with stares and lots of remarks from our fellow germanic travelers. Sometimes it feels like they are very pissed off with what we've done to the German's "peoples car".
We waited for an hour and I realized we were the only UK car getting on board and some of the very few speaking english.
But between us and Hirtshals was a must see, the bog man! This guy was murdered and tossed in a bog over 2000 years ago and has been preserved by it in a amazing way. The details on his body are startling.
We recovered from the haunting display with a walk through the surrounding forrest and some local exotic ice creams. Magnum cones and Daim cones.
4pm and we still had 200 clicks to our overnight stop. So we put a movie on for the the kids, and got on the motor-way. Dotty seems to love these flat northern roads and happily cruises at 120kph. Never mind that other cars are flying by with a 130kph speed limit. The traffic go thinner and thinner and we got closer to the northern tip of Denmark. The sun hanging low in the sky seemingly resisting its bedtime like a restless child.
At last we pulled into Hirtshals and after a long drive and a few wrong turns found our campsite..........closed for the season. With light fading fast we skipped out of down to the 2nd campsite hoping we wouldn't be camping on the docks overnight. It was open but empty. we checked in and to the kids delight the heated indoor pool was still open. Dinner was put on hold and a family dip had.
The sun rises late up here. So waking at dawn has become the norm. Beth and I washed dishes and packed up Dotty whilst the Jane and Flynn had a play at the campsite and petted a local cat who'd taken a shine to the scraps on offer from last nights dinner.
Packed and cleaned we piled into Dotty and made our way to the docks where our ferry to Norway waited, the Bergensfjord. We checked in and drove to the "camper-van" line. We were greeted with stares and lots of remarks from our fellow germanic travelers. Sometimes it feels like they are very pissed off with what we've done to the German's "peoples car".
We waited for an hour and I realized we were the only UK car getting on board and some of the very few speaking english.
Moonlight in Norway
The overnight ferry from Denmark to Norway was shrouded in low cloud and fog as we left. Nothing to see but a grey ocean fading into a grey sky.
So we ate some lunch and made our way to the 1500 bingo game in the "noghtclub" on deck 3.
Flynn won himself some logo despite the language barrier and was very happy to play with his new toy for the rest of the trip.
The kids loved the cabin with it's 2 sets of bunks, a muzak radio, a tiny bathroom and a small window.
In a prelude to the rest of Norway meals on the ferry were very expensive.
After a bit of bed swapping we all tucked up into our bunks with the swells rising outside. By midnight bottles of water were rolling about the cabin but thankfully sleep kept seasickness at bay.
We were woken at 0630 with an anouncement that we would soon arrive and must vacate our cabins by 0800. the sea was calm and we were greeted with a setting full moon and rising sun as we cruised up the spectaculr harbour to Bergen. So far the sunshine has followed us from the moment we first set off for Scotland and once again, in the city that has rain 265 days a year, the same held true.
1st stop was the tourist office to sort a camping stop close to town. And it was close to town. An old dock across the harbour from the CBD that looked more like a city car park. The owner was friendly the price was cheap (ish) and the view amazing. So our 1st bit of proper city camping. No trees, just concrete and tarmac with painted lines for sites.
parked up for the day we walked over the bridge into town to check out the sites.
So we ate some lunch and made our way to the 1500 bingo game in the "noghtclub" on deck 3.
Flynn won himself some logo despite the language barrier and was very happy to play with his new toy for the rest of the trip.
The kids loved the cabin with it's 2 sets of bunks, a muzak radio, a tiny bathroom and a small window.
In a prelude to the rest of Norway meals on the ferry were very expensive.
After a bit of bed swapping we all tucked up into our bunks with the swells rising outside. By midnight bottles of water were rolling about the cabin but thankfully sleep kept seasickness at bay.
We were woken at 0630 with an anouncement that we would soon arrive and must vacate our cabins by 0800. the sea was calm and we were greeted with a setting full moon and rising sun as we cruised up the spectaculr harbour to Bergen. So far the sunshine has followed us from the moment we first set off for Scotland and once again, in the city that has rain 265 days a year, the same held true.
1st stop was the tourist office to sort a camping stop close to town. And it was close to town. An old dock across the harbour from the CBD that looked more like a city car park. The owner was friendly the price was cheap (ish) and the view amazing. So our 1st bit of proper city camping. No trees, just concrete and tarmac with painted lines for sites.
parked up for the day we walked over the bridge into town to check out the sites.
Tuesday, 21 September 2010
Bremen - Ribe
Another long day on the road rewarded by great scenery and a soaking for Flynn and I.
We set off this morning from our 1st proper European/German campsite. The cleanest, tidiest most boring site so far with talk radio in german in the showers and washrooms and kitchen and foyer and WC. It looked more like an up market hotel than a camping facilities block. A far cry from the ramshackle cuteness of camp Zeeburg in Amsterdam full of hippies and students stoners.
So today was a tom-tom no motor-way cruise. Right through the guts of lowland Germany and Denmark's Jutland peninsula. 100 kph max speed limit with gentle winding roads dotted with villages. Acres and acres of corn and hundreds if not thousands of wind turbines. Dotty had enough grunt to get by the slow moving tractors and trucks so it was too slow going.
Half way we crossed the river Elbe on a car ferry. The tide was running in so the channel was full of container ships heading up river to Hamburg. Flynn and I stood at the front of the ferry watching one of these huge monster when we crossed the bow wave. The wave crashed over the front of the ferry and onto us and a few other passengers. We all stood dripping in salty Elbe. Laughter all round. Amazing how laughter has no language.
The A5 took us north as the sun came out. The signs slowly becoming more Scandinavian until in a flash, we were in Denmark.
we were heading for Ribe, A town founded in 869AD or so. It only has one camping platz and what a platz it is, Kids have their own washroom with smaller showers and lower shower heads. Unisex washrooms for the grownups. Each with private cubicles of course. Amazing camp kitchen and laundry. Petting zoo, Two playgrounds. WiFi. Do know if we can go back to pitching a tent in some farmers field after this.
Dotty all parked up and washing in the dryer we jumped on the bikes and cycled into town. I love bike lanes. I mean proper separate bike "roads". Not a painted line in Barclay's colours. In Amsterdam we bought pegs for the bikes so Jane and Flynn can sit on the luggage rack, with a cushion, and rest their legs on the pegs.
Ribe was lovely medievalness but the sun was going down, it was getting chilly and nothing much was open. Kids aren't up for pickled fish yet. So we will pop in again tomorrow and check it out.
Tomorrow arvo we drive to Hirstals on the northern tip of Denmark because Friday morning we drive onto a ferry for our 20hr ride to Norway across the North Sea.
Not sure where the next wifi will be.....catch you then,
Chris
We set off this morning from our 1st proper European/German campsite. The cleanest, tidiest most boring site so far with talk radio in german in the showers and washrooms and kitchen and foyer and WC. It looked more like an up market hotel than a camping facilities block. A far cry from the ramshackle cuteness of camp Zeeburg in Amsterdam full of hippies and students stoners.
So today was a tom-tom no motor-way cruise. Right through the guts of lowland Germany and Denmark's Jutland peninsula. 100 kph max speed limit with gentle winding roads dotted with villages. Acres and acres of corn and hundreds if not thousands of wind turbines. Dotty had enough grunt to get by the slow moving tractors and trucks so it was too slow going.
Half way we crossed the river Elbe on a car ferry. The tide was running in so the channel was full of container ships heading up river to Hamburg. Flynn and I stood at the front of the ferry watching one of these huge monster when we crossed the bow wave. The wave crashed over the front of the ferry and onto us and a few other passengers. We all stood dripping in salty Elbe. Laughter all round. Amazing how laughter has no language.
The A5 took us north as the sun came out. The signs slowly becoming more Scandinavian until in a flash, we were in Denmark.
we were heading for Ribe, A town founded in 869AD or so. It only has one camping platz and what a platz it is, Kids have their own washroom with smaller showers and lower shower heads. Unisex washrooms for the grownups. Each with private cubicles of course. Amazing camp kitchen and laundry. Petting zoo, Two playgrounds. WiFi. Do know if we can go back to pitching a tent in some farmers field after this.
Dotty all parked up and washing in the dryer we jumped on the bikes and cycled into town. I love bike lanes. I mean proper separate bike "roads". Not a painted line in Barclay's colours. In Amsterdam we bought pegs for the bikes so Jane and Flynn can sit on the luggage rack, with a cushion, and rest their legs on the pegs.
Ribe was lovely medievalness but the sun was going down, it was getting chilly and nothing much was open. Kids aren't up for pickled fish yet. So we will pop in again tomorrow and check it out.
Tomorrow arvo we drive to Hirstals on the northern tip of Denmark because Friday morning we drive onto a ferry for our 20hr ride to Norway across the North Sea.
Not sure where the next wifi will be.....catch you then,
Chris
Saturday, 18 September 2010
Well here we are in Europe.
It has been a whirlwind of a week...this time last week we were in Edinburgh and here we are having moved house and travelled to France by ferry.
It was very emotional driving away from Raines Court, we had a lovely little send off from some of our neighbours! Thanks guys!!
The kids were both really upset, I don't think any of us had thought about how hard it would be to say good-bye!
Sailing away from the White Cliffs of Dover was beautiful, it was a clear day and the sun shone giving us a fine departure and a smooth channel crossing!!!
Tonight- Amsterdam....I'm told I can't the kids into a coffee shop?!!
Well...on the road at last.
We left London on the 2nd September and headed north.
First stop was Oxfordshire to see some dear relatives and say good-bye, It was a sad farewell.....
Then onwards to Great Malvern to stay with Nina lovely homemade pizza and as always fine hospitality!..topped the tanks with Spring Water straight from the source! Quick jaunt around town for some other supplies etc....
Next stop - Ulswater in the Lakes District. Stunning views, beautiful fresh air....plenty of trouble for the kids to get into!
We took a walk into the town which was about 15 minutes or so and wandered around, found a place to rent a little sailing boat and went out for an hour or so...was lovely and all our sailing skills returned like riding a bike!
Well was all lovely until we lost any semblance of wind and had to tiller all the way back to port!!!
Next day was a big drive to Glasgow.
Dotty's first boo boo....flat tyre.....Chris managed to change it and we were both amazed at the genius design of the jack and the spare tyre casing! Even for a 20 year old car it all made such sense!!
Glasgow: Stayed with another friend and had "the best curry in Glasgow" and then off to a little gathering of souls and some good music!
Saturday was a big walk into the city to find some other supplies and take in the Glaswegian architecture! Moaning kids who stayed up to late cut the day short but we found all that we needed and managed to get in a trip to the theatre to see the Gruffalo! Unexpected Gruffalo encounter!
Drive then onto Oban and camped up before being chauffeured into town by some hospitable friends of friends for a lovely meal and some good conversation.
Monday was a little wander around Oban, nice little town, stop off at the Whisky Shop for a nip to stash in Dotty's cupboard!! Also Procurement of a Fishing rod, much to Flynn's delight!
Next stop the Isle of Mull... a ferry ride away and then a very exciting drive on a single track road to a very beautiful yet possibly the most wind torn campsite ever!
The kids were in heaven, sand castles on the beach, a spot of fishing...no luck...and then warm showers!!
We woke after a very windy and wet night to a very low tide which meant foot access to some of the rocky outcrops off the shore. the kids and Chris wandered out for an hour or so while I sorted out for departure!
Another ferry ride out to Iona, quaint little island with a turbulent history, monks, nuns, vikings....very interesting....
then off on one of the most stunning drives I have ever been on...absolutely gorgeous coastline, beautiful scenes, WOW....really really amazing...highly recommended....then camping near Calgary bay in a free campsite....Free camping is a legal right in Scotland so long as the land owner approves, there are some places that request no camping but otherwise you can pretty much pull up wherever...very cool.
Short drive the next day with some more beautiful views and down the hill to Balamory...well Tobermory really, spotted some coloured houses! Stocked up on supplies again and then ferry back to Mainland....more driving!
Priority today was to find a campsite with Laundry facilities as we had no clean knickers!! Tick...3 loads of washing later!! kids returned from the beach covered in sand once again....!! Still no luck with the fishing....may have lost my touch!!
Now on the road to Loch Ness for some monster spotting!!
So far so good....Dotty is a champion....kids are fine if they are entertained, they don't like to sit and drive...Flynn I am realising, has more energy than one small boy should be allowed....
Chris and I could both use a good nights sleep...the beds while functional are not really posturepaedic!
Everything else plodding along swimmingly!!
Hope all is well where ever you are!!
Lots of love
Beth!
Tuesday, 14 September 2010
We have been on quite an adventure over the last 2 weeks...have written a blog post all about it but have yet to figure out how to upload it from the road....
Currently in London awaiting the movers! They will arrive in approximately 1 hr 20 min!
Then I am to say good bye to my laptop for several months!!
We should be leaving on Friday for Europe and further adventures...stay tuned....
Also
Email address from today will be:
beth.sandstrom@gmail.com
Currently in London awaiting the movers! They will arrive in approximately 1 hr 20 min!
Then I am to say good bye to my laptop for several months!!
We should be leaving on Friday for Europe and further adventures...stay tuned....
Also
Email address from today will be:
beth.sandstrom@gmail.com
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)